The Art of Gem Setting (Sertissage) in Antique Creations
Sertissage, or gem setting, is the technique used to secure precious gemstones, cabochons, or other decorative elements into metal settings in jewelry, medals, and religious artifacts. Gem setting is a crucial aspect of jewelry making, as it not only enhances the beauty of the piece but also ensures that the stone remains securely in place for generations. The technique of sertissage has been refined over centuries, with artisans developing various styles of setting depending on the design and type of gemstone.
From prong settings to bezel settings, each form of sertissage requires expert craftsmanship to balance aesthetic appeal with structural integrity. This meticulous process allows the gemstone to shine while maintaining its protection within the metal. The art of sertissage has played a significant role in the history of jewelry and religious orfèvrerie, enhancing the allure of these items.
A Historical Overview of Sertissage
The history of gem setting can be traced back thousands of years to ancient Egypt, Greece, and Mesopotamia, where early civilizations adorned themselves with precious stones set into gold and silver. The Egyptians were pioneers in using bezel settings for their scarab amulets and other jewelry, ensuring the stone was securely enclosed in a raised metal rim.
In ancient Rome, sertissage reached new heights with the use of prong settings in rings and brooches, which allowed gemstones to be displayed more prominently while securing them in place. Roman jewelers were known for their ability to combine colored gemstones with gold, silver, and bronze, creating intricate designs that conveyed wealth, power, and religious significance.
During the Renaissance, sertissage flourished in Europe as artisans developed more complex methods of setting precious stones. Jewelers in Italy, France, and Spain used a variety of techniques, including invisible settings and pavé settings, to create dazzling designs that highlighted the brilliance of diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. The Renaissance period also saw the rise of religious medals and reliquaries adorned with gemstone settings, symbolizing faith and devotion.
Sertissage in Antique Jewelry
In antique jewelry, sertissage was used to enhance the beauty of rings, necklaces, earrings, and brooches. One of the most common forms of gem setting in antique jewelry is the bezel setting, where a gemstone is completely or partially encased in a metal rim, protecting the stone while allowing its surface to catch the light. This type of setting was especially popular in medieval and Renaissance jewelry, where it was used to highlight rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.
Another popular technique in antique jewelry is the prong setting, where the gemstone is held in place by small metal prongs or claws. This type of sertissage allows more light to pass through the gemstone, enhancing its brilliance. Prong settings were often used in Georgian and Victorian jewelry to showcase diamonds, amethysts, and garnets.
The Victorian era also saw the use of more elaborate sertissage techniques, such as pavé settings, where small gemstones are set closely together on the surface of the metal, creating a continuous field of sparkling stones. This technique was commonly used in brooches, rings, and lockets, adding an extra layer of luxury to Victorian jewelry.
Sertissage in Religious Medals and Orfèvrerie
Sertissage played an important role in the creation of religious medals and liturgical objects during the medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque periods. Gemstones were often set into crosses, chalices, reliquaries, and other sacred items, symbolizing the wealth and devotion of the church or its patrons. The bezel setting was frequently used in religious objects to secure sapphires, garnets, and rubies, which were believed to have protective and spiritual properties.
Religious medals adorned with gemstones became popular during the Renaissance, as they were worn as symbols of faith and protection. These medals often featured engraved images of saints or religious symbols, with gemstones set around the edges or in the center, emphasizing the importance of the medal as a sacred object.
In addition to religious medals, sertissage was used in the decoration of liturgical vessels, such as chalices and censers. Gemstones were set into the metal to create elaborate designs that represented the divine. The use of gemstones in religious orfèvrerie was not only a display of wealth but also a reflection of the spiritual significance of the item.
Curious Anecdotes and Rare Stories About Sertissage
One rare anecdote from the Renaissance involves the use of sertissage in the creation of a magnificent diamond cross commissioned by Catherine de’ Medici. The cross, set with dozens of diamonds using intricate prong settings, was designed to be worn at court and during religious ceremonies. It became a symbol of her power and influence, and its craftsmanship was highly admired throughout Europe.
Another interesting story comes from the Georgian period, where mourning jewelry often featured gemstones set into lockets or rings as a way to commemorate lost loved ones. These pieces, known as memorial jewels, were often engraved with the deceased’s initials or a special date, with the gemstones symbolizing eternal love and remembrance.
The Symbolism and Mystical Properties of Sertissage
Throughout history, gemstones have been associated with mystical properties and spiritual significance. Different stones were believed to offer protection, bring good fortune, or symbolize divine connection. In religious contexts, gemstones set in crosses and medals were seen as offering divine protection and grace to the wearer.
In secular contexts, sertissage was used to create personalized jewelry that symbolized love, wealth, and status. The gemstone settings in rings, brooches, and necklaces were often chosen for their beauty and symbolism. For example, diamonds were believed to symbolize eternal love, while sapphires were thought to bring wisdom and protection.
Sertissage in Collectible Antique Artifacts
Today, antique jewelry and religious objects featuring sertissage are highly prized by collectors. These pieces are valued for their intricate craftsmanship, historical significance, and the beauty of their gemstone settings. Whether found in a Georgian ring, a Victorian brooch, or a Renaissance religious medal, the technique of sertissage continues to captivate with its artistry and precision.
From the hands of ancient goldsmiths to the ateliers of Renaissance jewelers, sertissage has played a significant role in the history of jewelry and religious orfèvrerie. Its enduring appeal ensures that it remains one of the most cherished techniques in the world of fine metalwork.
Copyright © Artefacts-Collector